Departing from his customary Parisian routine, Hed Mayner makes an appearance in Florence, arriving at the historic Santa Maria Novella train station—mere steps from the buzzing epicenter of Pitti Uomo. Rather than opting for a conventional runway setting, the designer embraced a location that resonated deeply with his design philosophy and the spirit of the city itself.
Motion as a Living Concept
In alignment with the fair’s seasonal theme, Motion, Mayner welcomed guests into the Palazzina Reale, an understated architectural jewel nestled beside the station. The venue’s direct connection to the railway tracks added a sense of constant movement and industrial rhythm, transforming the show into a living dialogue between fashion, space, and transit. Trains gliding past became an unspoken part of the narrative, reinforcing the idea of fashion in flux.
A New Language of Tailoring
Across 34 meticulously styled looks, Mayner presented a bold interpretation of contemporary menswear that challenged tradition without discarding it. His approach to tailoring reimagined familiar forms through exaggerated proportions—most notably strong, flared shoulders balanced by fluid volumes below. The silhouettes felt deliberate yet effortless, structured yet unconfined.
Asymmetry played a central role throughout the collection, with unexpected cuts and layered constructions lending depth and complexity to each outfit. These design choices echoed Mayner’s ongoing exploration of tension: between control and freedom, sharpness and softness.
Textures, Fabrics, and Subtle Contrast
The collection thrived on contrasts, both visual and tactile. Classic patterns like houndstooth were reworked alongside striking elements such as silver sequins and sculptural pleats. These were softened by flowing fabrics that moved naturally with the body, reinforcing the theme of motion.
Material choices further elevated the narrative. Wool gabardine gave coats a refined strength, while velvet introduced a sense of quiet luxury, even in more unconventional pieces like dresses. This interplay of textures created a harmonious balance between elegance and experimentation.
Sport, Uniform, and Identity
Rounding out the collection were subtle nods to sportswear and uniform-inspired garments—signatures of Mayner’s design language. These elements grounded the looks in everyday functionality while maintaining a distinct conceptual edge.
With this presentation, Hed Mayner makes an appearance in Florence that feels both timely and transformative. By merging architectural context, thoughtful tailoring, and emotional movement, the designer delivered a collection that didn’t simply respond to the theme of Motion—it embodied it.
